On weeds, and weeding on Merri Creek


06th September 2026
By Arimbi Winoto

It’s guling season now by Wurundjeri reckoning. It’s milder and if there were still native orchids here in the southern reaches of Merri Creek, it would be orchid season. However, wattles and clematis are flowering and the Tree violet and Pomaderris are close. Birds are starting to pair up and organise their nests in hollows, or branches.

Now is a lovely time to be out and observing and weeding! There are so many reasons that weeding can be such a rewarding activity.

One is for the integrity of the flora, fungi and fauna of the creek – a little wild corridor into the Yarra and the city. It can probably never be returned to its original pristine state, but we can try to maintain plantings. They are costly & effortful and lots of volunteers put their hearts, souls, backs and hands up for this. These programs were supported by various institutions, but are driven by the community – so it’s in appreciation of earlier and ongoing efforts.

The main reason for me is that I simply find it calming, meditative and therapeutic and I feel I’ve made a tiny contribution.

What’s a weed? An unwanted plant, or one in the wrong place. There are various definitions but, broadly, it could be a non-indigenous plant that has the potential to out-compete with native plants for resources such as soil, light, water and nutrients. In this way, they hinder native plants from forming a self-sustaining community. Of course, in our ever-shrinking wildlife habitat, some non-indigenous plants have become an invaluable food or refuge source, so these may not be a priority.

I tend to concentrate on the non-woody weeds such as Pellitory, Onion weed, Cleavers, Chickweed, Fumitory, Nightshade and Wild Brassica that are easy to pull out by hand. I leave the woody weeds like Boxthorn, Cactus, Fennel and Blackberry for more serious, organised groups, with heavier equipment. Weeding is not glamorous and doesn’t need special gear: old clothes and sturdy (but clean) shoes/boots, gloves and an old bag to pop weeds into. A small fork, or trowel, for stubborn roots can be useful. I try and head out after rain, or when the soil is moist. I don’t waste time (or my skin) on recently sprayed weeds. There’s usually a sign to indicate this.

If you’re unsure of identifying weeds versus natives (grasses and climbers can be tricky if they’re not in flower), join one of the FoMC weeding days to gain confidence and make friends.

My strategy is to choose a small, manageable section.  Often, I can see some little native thing about to be engulfed by weed – and start liberating! It’s probably good to do a small plot well, rather than to get too ambitious. Sometimes, I target a weed type – maybe it’s flowering, and I want to get it before it’s pollinated, and the seeds are spread by wind or birds. I try to remove as much of the root, or bulb, as possible to avoid quick reinfestation, trying not to expose too much bare soil for more weed to recolonise. This is where the liberation strategy around existing plants can be a good, as it allows the wanted plant to establish itself.

You can bag up weeds for the green bin, or to feed chooks, but home compost is usually not hot enough to kill seed and bulbs.

Then plan your next foray or join one of the FoMC mornings.

Image credits: All photos by Arimbi Winoto, with our thanks. 

   pelliotory.jpg   mallow.jpg   
Nightshade (Solanum nigrum); Mallow (Malva sp) 

 

  climbing_weed.jpg    IMG_cleavers.jpg
Fumitory (Fumaria sp); Cleavers (Gallium aparine)

   

   IMG_3889_copy.JPG   onion_weed2.png
Wild brassica (Brassica sp); Onionweed (Allium triquetrum)    
 

      before_weeding.jpg   after_weeding.jpg
Weeping grass (Microlaena stipoides) before and after removing chickweed (Stellaria media)

 

   

More to explore
Weeds — more on species, resources.

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